Crown reduction in Surrey
Crown reduction makes a tree smaller while keeping it looking like the same tree. We shorten the branches all round the crown, cutting each one back to a healthy side branch or bud, so the tree keeps its natural outline and carries on growing in a balanced way.
When a crown reduction makes sense
- Too close to a building: branches touching a roof, gutters or windows, or heading that way.
- Too much shade: a tree that has outgrown a garden and darkens the house or lawn.
- Wind loading: a large crown on an exposed site catches more wind, and a reduction takes some of that strain off the trunk and roots.
- Weak or damaged trees: a tree with decay or an old wound can sometimes be kept safely by reducing the weight it carries.
- Overhanging a boundary: bringing branches back from a neighbour's property or a road.
How we reduce a crown
We start by looking at the tree as a whole: its species, health, age and how it has grown. That tells us how much it can lose without harm. Some species respond well to reduction; others, such as beech and birch, tolerate much less, and a heavy cut can leave them stressed or decaying.
We then cut each branch back to a growth point that can take over as the new tip. This is the difference between a crown reduction and topping. Topping cuts branches off at an arbitrary height, which leaves large stubs, invites decay and produces a mass of weak regrowth. A proper reduction keeps the tree healthy and needs less work in future.
All our pruning follows BS3998, the British Standard for tree work, and we clear and remove everything we cut.
Timing
Most trees are best reduced in late autumn or winter, when they are dormant and easier to see through. Some species, such as birch, maple and walnut, bleed sap if cut in late winter or spring, so we work on those in summer. Cherries and plums are pruned in summer to lower the risk of silver leaf disease.
From March to August we check every tree for nesting birds before we start. Active nests are protected by law, and work waits until the young have left.
Protected trees
If your tree has a Tree Preservation Order, the council has to give consent before it is reduced. In a conservation area, you need to give the council six weeks' notice of most tree work. We can check this for you and help with the application or notice before any work is booked.
Frequently asked questions
How much can you take off?
It depends on the species, its health and how it has been pruned before. We tell you what the tree can take safely when we visit, rather than working to a fixed amount.
Will a crown reduction harm my tree?
Done properly, to suitable growth points and within what the species can tolerate, it should not. Harm comes from over-cutting and topping, which we do not do.
How often does it need doing?
That depends on how fast the tree grows back. Many trees need reducing again every few years to stay at the size you want.
What is the difference between crown reduction and crown thinning?
Reduction makes the whole crown smaller. Thinning keeps the size the same but removes some of the smaller branches inside it, letting more light and wind through.
Licensed and insured
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City & Guilds NPTC qualified -
Arborisk public liability insurance -
CHAS accredited contractor -
BS3998 tree work
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Speak to a member of our team on 07488 892213